• Ferry Building drone light show

    This evening drones lit up the sky behind the Ferry Building along with projections on the building’s tower. All of this was part of a drone light show sponsored by something called Gamma for this year’s Tech Week.

    While there was no question this was an advertisement — the enormous QR codes were a dead giveaway — the spectacle of the show drew quite a crowd to the Embarcadero Plaza area to watch the show.

    The light from the LED-clad drones was easily visible despite a full moon and light pollution from all the streetlights. As a rhythm-heavy soundtrack played (not included in the video for copyright reasons) the drones, themselves invisible in the night sky, flew around to form animated shapes.

    I wouldn’t categorize the show as particularly artistic. If anything it reminded me of the early 3D graphics demos back in the day. But for better or worse there were no Utah teapots tonight.

    The drone show only lasted about 15 minutes, ending with a QR code for the sponsor. On my way back to the Muni Metro station I looked up what it was: a tool for creating AI slop PowerPoint slides. Ugh.

  • How I pack and travel light

    Sometimes people ask how I travel for several days, weeks, or even a month with nothing more than one backpack. In this post I explain my methodology.

    Hint: it involves laundry.

    Traveling with minimal luggage isn’t something I ever set out to do because it was “trendy” or whatever. Like many people I kept bringing more and more stuff, eventually getting a suitcase with wheels. Rolling luggage is one of those ideas that seems smart until you’ve had the distinct displeasure of dragging it along a cobblestone street.

    At some point while lugging a heavy suitcase it hit me: no matter how many clothes I packed, I’d wind up needing to do laundry anyway. No matter how many toiletries I packed, I’d wind up running out of something and need to buy more.

    Then there are the issues of paying for checked luggage, keeping track of your bags, being able to lift them up a flight of stairs or two, etc.

    At some point you have to stop and ask: do I really need all this stuff?

    As professional travel guide Rick Steves once said, “Remember, in your travels you’ll meet two kinds of tourists — those who pack light and those who wish they had.” So if you don’t want to take my word for it, take his. And while you’re at it, his guide on traveling with one bag is an excellent place to start.

    When deciding what to pack you can think of it like two lists: stuff that goes in your bag, and stuff you can get at your destination. Sunscreen is a good example of the latter. I try to pack only toiletries I might need right away when I reach my destination. The rest I can buy once I’ve unpacked.

    That’s another advantage of a travel backpack; it can double as a shopping bag.

    While I own a reusable water bottle and take it with me when going out locally, I don’t think it makes much sense to bring all that extra weight on an airplane. Instead I’ll buy a bottle of water at my destination and refill it as needed.

    Now about your limited clothes. There are two things to research before your trip: the laundry situation and the weather report. This should give you an idea as to what types of clothes make sense and how long you can go between washes.

    On Airbnb you can filter listings by which ones have laundry. Sometimes this may be in-unit, other times there’s a laundry room on site. Hotels are a different matter as they often have a wash and fold service with outrageous prices. In that case you can either hand wash your clothes in the sink/shower, or find a laundromat nearby.

    Laundry protip: If you need quarters and the banks are closed, look for one of those arcade bars in the area. They always have change machines.

    In the photos above you can see how I packed my backpack for the trip to Los Angeles. Aside from shirts, socks, and underpants I also brought swim trunks (which I didn’t end up even using) as well as my laptop, some chargers, cables, toiletries, and medications.

    My current travel backpack is an Osprey Farpoint 40 Travel Pack. Let me briefly explain how I use this bag. Clothes go in the central area. I have two Ziplock bags, one for toiletries and one for chargers and cables. Both of those go in the front pocket, which is only accessible via the central area and have their own zipper and mesh pocket. The laptop, a MacBook Air, goes into the laptop pocket in the back. There’s also a “secret” pocket where I keep an AirTag.

    Fully packed there was room to spare. Which is fine, the goal isn’t to cram as much stuff in there as possible, though it also means a slightly smaller backpack would have worked just as well.

    Now you might ask, what about destination weddings? Won’t I need formal attire? Well first of all, no, it would be ridiculous to expect a dress code at a destination wedding. But if you do find yourself in a situation where you happen to need clothing for a specific occasion I would bet there’s a place to rent it. Same goes for most types of sports equipment, etc.

    In summary the general strategy is — not a one-size-fits-all solution, more like a general guide — when in doubt, leave it out.

  • Los Angeles 2025 wrap-up and stray observations

    After flying into Los Angeles via the Burbank airport, my first two stops didn’t go as well as I’d hoped. First up was the Old Zoo in Griffith Park. It’s kind of depressing to imagine any animal larger than a mouse feeling at home here.

    The park itself was also partly roped off for construction, and absolutely overrun with bees and gnats for some reason. The carousel that served as an inspiration for Walt Disney was also closed.

    Next up was the LA Central Library. I’d hoped to snag a card and get free admission to some museums in the area via Discover & Go. What I didn’t realize is there are a limited number of free passes handed out at the beginning of the month; all of which had already been claimed. Oh well, maybe next time.

    The library wasn’t a total bust though as I was able to take a guided tour. The original building is a quirky mashup of Mission Revival, Art Deco, and some ancient Egyptian tossed in for good measure. The building has been largely restored after a devastating arson attack in the 1980’s.

    Unfortunately the new wing added in the 90’s lacks any charm with an ill-fated attempt at bridging the past to the present. The less said about it the better.

    I was happy to find there’s still an excellent coffee stand across the street in the ornate lobby of the CalEdison building, even if the proprietor has changed since my previous visit. It’s about the ambiance as much as the coffee anyway.

    LA Metro Rail has improved significantly since my last visit to downtown LA with a new light rail subway extension. Three new subway stations have been added: Bunker Hill, Historic Broadway, and Little Tokyo/Arts District.

    Best of all, it ties together with the other light rail lines and traditional subway lines underground at the existing 7th Street/Metro Center station. To say this makes staying downtown a more attractive option is an understatement. It’s almost good enough to make up for LA Metro’s subpar bus service.

    As a side note I wound up adding too much cash to my TAP transit card. Not because I didn’t use it, but because unbeknownst to me fares were free all weekend as part of the opening of a new A line extension.

    I’m not sure if this was related or not but there was an event at Union Station with historic trains on display. Thinking that might be fun to check out I made my way over — only to find an extremely long line with a sign claiming the wait was an hour. I couldn’t find a way to sneak past security on another platform or upper level of the station to even capture some photos. So that was a total bust.

    Downtown LA continues to feel strangely empty, an odd contrast to all the office an apartment towers. There are two fairly obvious reasons for this:

    1. Many of the buildings downtown are underutilized or not used at all. It’s not uncommon to see a large building covered in plywood. There’s plenty of value in these old buildings that could be unlocked through restoration and adaptive re-use, but given the cost of construction in California these things often don’t pencil out.
    2. The amount of space devoted to automobile infrastructure makes it unwalkable. An urban region is mean to be experienced by walking around, but that’s difficult to do when there’s one parking lot after another between any two points on a map. Or if not a parking lot, a freeway.

    It’s a shame the city hasn’t made more of an effort to address these issues as the basic layout and many of the structures from downtown LA’s glamorous past are still present. It’s not difficult to imagine the streets springing back to life on a regular basis, all it would take is a modest amount of vision and willpower.

    I managed to track down the mysterious “alien church” that’s been in the news recently. Unfortunately they don’t have regular hours (or didn’t at the time anyway) so I didn’t get to check it out.

    My only advice for those looking for it are to check their Instagram page for updates and to take the directions on Google Maps with a grain of salt as they lead to an alley behind the building for some reason.

    I think what keeps me coming back to LA is a little more than just its history or famous locations we’ve all seen in Hollywood movies. No, it’s more than that. It feels like I’ve lived some past life there (or perhaps a future one?) but at the moment it’s in an awkward period of transition.

    Personally what I find most enduring about Los Angeles is how much of it is covered in outsider art, from the Watts Towers to the Museum of Jurassic Technology it seems there’s an antithesis to the bland, corporate side of Hollywood around every corner. All of it hidden in plain view, waiting for you to stumble upon it.

  • LA River and Secret Stairs tour

    On my last day in Los Angeles I took a walking tour of the LA River and Elysian Valley. The area covered is roughly between Silver Lake and the river.

    When most people think of the LA River today — if they think about it at all — they tend to think of a dry concrete half-pipe used as a location for filming movies and music videos. While this is true, it’s not the whole truth.

    In the early days of Los Angeles the river provided a source of water for drinking and growing food. However, it wasn’t particularly great for either purpose as the water was inconsistent at best; sometimes it would slow to a trickle, and every so often it would flood the entire area. The land being mostly flat meant that these floods could wash away entire neighborhoods as the river changed course.

    As LA began to grow in the early 20th century, the Army Corps of Engineers tamed the river with the concrete trench it’s known for today.

    This tour starts at a part of the river that notably isn’t dry, and having been partly reclaimed by nature now serves as a recreation area for the neighborhood with parks and a bike path running alongside it. Much of this is only possible thanks to a large-scale volunteer effort to remove the garbage that had piled up in the river over the years.

    As the tour winds through Elysian Valley (also known as Frogtown) many of the streets turn into steep staircases. These “secret” stairs have homes along them that aren’t accessible by any other means. One imagines that working as a USPS postal carrier in the area would negate any need to own a StairMaster.

    On the subject of deliveries, one of these staircases is where the classic Laurel & Hardy comedy short “The Music Box” (embedded above) was filmed.

    The stair portion of the tour includes dirt trails, brick paths, and passes some homes with unusual homemade decor. One home had a large Easter Island head outside that gave it a whimsical theme park quality. Say what you will about LA, it has character.

    My recommendation: With all the stairs this tour requires some stamina. I will admit that booking this tour on a day with 90 degree weather wasn’t the best idea, though then again it did feel good to work off all those tacos. If you’re not up for a leg day and are only interested in the river, this probably isn’t the right fit. Otherwise lace up your walking shoes, put on some sunscreen, and grab yourself a bottle of water.

  • Delusion: Harrowing Of Hell

    Continuing the Halloween theme in Los Angeles after going on a Chinatown ghost hunt and attending a festive funeral procession, I decided to take the plunge and check out this year’s Delusion haunted house experience. While I’d never visited previous incarnations of Delusion it didn’t really matter — this year it features an all new story and theme based around the circles of hell.

    Delusion begins in a bar/merchandise area just past the ticketing area. Here you wait for a text message telling you to proceed upstairs. This is a smaller waiting area where the group you’re assigned with gathers. In my case, magician Matt Felten performed several slight of hand card tricks in a one-on-one setting as I was the first to arrive. This was by far the highlight of the night, there’s nothing like seeing magic performed up close by a professional.

    Once the group has gathered there’s a brief intro, followed by a walk into the next area where the ghostly haunted house experience began. I’m not going to go into detail on all of these to avoid spoilers but getting in and out of each area involved either taking some stairs and/or a ride in an elevator with a spooky actor. There’s a lot of running/fast walking away from scary actors in each scene.

    The scenes form largely self-contained vignettes, which is fine but they don’t effectively congeal into a larger story aside from the hand-wavy concept of escaping hell. This feels like a missed opportunity that could have elevated the experience beyond a typical haunted house.

    The actors did an excellent job with their roles, playing out nightmarish, horror movie type characters designed to play into certain fears. The costumes, makeup, sound, and special effects were all on point as well.

    Unfortunately, what wasn’t on point at all was the set design. Whereas something like Meow Wolf takes the mobility of visitors into account, the team behind Delusion built the set more like a stage play with lots of poorly-marked tripping hazards and at least one staircase with no handrails. Fumbling around in the dark trying to carefully avoid obstacles completely breaks the immersion as you’re forced to focus on your own safety rather than the scene playing out in each area.

    My recommendation: Due to the aforementioned set design issues this one can be safely skipped, there are plenty of other Halloween attractions in the LA area to check out instead. Hopefully the folks behind Delusion can work the kinks out for next year.

  • Downtown LA Taco Tour with a local food critic

    Last night I stuffed my face on six or so tacos via an Airbnb experience called Taste the LA taco scene with a leading food critic. The other guest(s) on the tour cancelled last minute to it was just me and the host, Patricia, a food critic who’s worked at various publications.

    The walking tour had a bit of a choose-your-own-adventure vibe, starting out with several options to choose from at the Grand Central Market. As a pescatarian there were two spots that worked for me; I went with a trendier option that offered nopales tacos.

    Stops on the tour involved a reasonably short walk between locations. These ranged from a casual restaurant from a Michelin starred chef all the way to a food truck and everything in between. One of my personal favorites was a handmade crispy taco filled with sweet potato and topped with mole.

    My recommendation: While it’s hard to go wrong with tacos, this tour includes some real gems that take tacos to the next level. Patricia is a very knowledgeable LA foodie who knows how to adapt the tour to various dietary restrictions. Definitely show up with an empty stomach — you’ll have a food coma by the end.

  • LA Arts District Graffiti/Mural Tour with a local street artist

    Six years ago in the “before times” as it were, when the pandemic shattered everything, I took a wide-ranging tour of the Los Angeles Arts District from a tour company that is now sadly defunct.

    During this trip I wanted to go a little more in depth on the street art aspect of the Arts District and booked a tour with LA Arts Tours. The guide for our group was local street artist ShanduOne, (aka Hector Calderon) who started out in the graffiti scene as a kid with a group called the LA Bomb Squad. His style has a unique geometric, almost stained glass look to it.

    According to Hector the street art scene in LA has its roots in the cholo street gang culture. By the time he became involved it had taken cues from the New York City graffiti movement and with that an identity separate from gang culture.

    One of the biggest changes over the years he pointed out is how street artists aren’t as anonymous as they once were, often signing their work with their Instagram usernames even when it’s technically vandalism. But with that clout some of the artists have been able to find steady commissioned work, even international fame in some cases (think Banksy, Colette Miller, Shepard Fairey etc.)

    Another change he pointed out is in the medium itself: spray paint. It used to be only available in a very limited selection of 30 or so colors as it was manufactured for utilitarian purposes. As street art emerged as a legitimate art form you can now easily find hundreds of colors.

    My recommendation: This tour is far more detailed than your typical street art tour, and as such it involves quite a bit of walking. I’d recommend bringing a bottle of water on a hot day though be warned there are no bathroom stops. Parts of the area covered are on the seedier end of the spectrum so watch where you step. If you take this tour I’d encourage you to look into booking it with Hector if you can; he has the kind of personal insight you can’t get from a typical tour guide.

  • Chinatown LA Ghost Hunt from The Haunt

    On Saturday night I went on a spooky adventure looking for signs of the paranormal on a tour of New Chinatown with The Haunt. The guide for our group, Rory, told us the tales of prohibition-era corruption, racist redevelopments, mysterious deaths, and unmarked graves. (See this post for more about LA’s New Chinatown.)

    But there was more than just true crime; we also went looking for spirits and ghostly apparitions.

    At the start of the tour we stood in a circle and repeated after the guide to ask the spirits to show themselves. We were all then handed EMF detectors, which look like stud finders that you might use to hang a flat screen TV on the wall. I’m not sure what it actually measured but the lights went from green to red in certain locations. Waving it near my phone didn’t seem to have an effect, surprisingly enough considering the EMF radiation it produces with cellular, wifi, and Bluetooth connections.

    At the Metro Rail Chinatown station our guide showed us how to use a coin to get guidance from an I Ching circle embedded in the ground. As I understand it there are multiple types of I Ching, but this one involved tossing a coin to get a horoscope-style reading from a book. This was entertaining though we didn’t get anything that seemed particularly otherworldly from it.

    By far the most intriguing tool we tested were dowsing rods. The first guest who tried them didn’t have much luck, but after handing them to me they started moving like crazy as the guide asked questions of any spirits who may be listening.

    Now I consider myself a rational person but I couldn’t figure out exactly what made them move — there was no noticeable increase in wind for example. My guess is that the previous guest had steadier hands than mine. And of course like a Ouiji board the results are very much open to interpretation. Still, it was rather eerie to experience firsthand.

    My recommendation: If you’re into dark and mysterious things with a touch of the theatrical, The Haunt has tours in both the Los Angeles area as well as San Francisco. I found it more interesting than scary, particularly the tales of true crime. If you do go on any such tour I highly recommend participating when given the opportunity.

  • Nine Inch Nails – “Peel It Back” tour

    When booking my trip to Los Angeles this year I discovered it happened to coincide with the final show of Nine Inch Nails’ Peel It Back tour. If there was ever an omen this was it; I had to book a ticket to the show.

    And what an expensive ticket it was! Somewhere along the line the ticket companies changed their tune on the once frowned-upon practice of reselling tickets (formerly known as “scalping”) when they realized they could double dip on fees: once on the original sale and once again when the ticket was resold. How that’s legal is beyond me.

    But anyway, back to the show.

    It began with Trent Reznor sitting at a piano keyboard, performing a solo version of Right Where It Belongs on the secondary stage in the middle of the auditorium. He was soon joined by Atticus Ross and several touring musicians before making their way to the big stage to play some of their biggest hits, including March of the Pigs and Closer, darting back to the second stage for a brief set of remixes.

    As the night came to a close, Reznor thanked everyone for coming to the tour’s last show, and mentioned that the next song seemed to unfortunately take on new meanings recently: I’m Afraid of Americans. It seemed far more melancholy than I remember, if for no other reason than the vocal snippets of David Bowie (RIP) which remain present in the backing track.

    About a week ago on this very blog I suggested some foreshadowing in my post about a certain play, and wouldn’t you know it: Head Like a Hole turned out to be one of the last songs of the night.

    The show ended with a performance of Hurt (see video above) which the audience participated in by holding up their phones with flashlight mode enabled, the same way concertgoers used to hold up lit cigarette lighters — ask your grandparents, kids.

    Which leads to my last point. I’d expected the audience to mostly be around my age, perhaps slightly older as I was only in middle school when many of NIN’s best known songs were released. But no, the crowd ranged in age from teenagers to the gray-hairs-and-canes set, perhaps skewing slightly toward the latter. Trent Reznor himself turned 60 this year but still appears to be in incredibly good shape, and is arguably a more confident performer than he was back in those early days.

    There’s no point in me offering a recommendation here as the tour is now over. That said, if I were to see Nine Inch Nails again I’d prefer a much smaller, less cramped venue than the Kia Forum. Those looking for more NIN in their lives won’t have to wait for long, as they scored the soundtrack for the upcoming movie Tron: Ares.

  • Watts Towers

    I first learned about the Watts Towers as a kid when I randomly came across a TV movie called Daniel and the Towers on PBS. The movie tells a fictional story about a boy who slowly befriends a cantankerous oddball named Simon Rodia as he builds a set of towers and decorates them with colorful found objects.

    For a long time I’d wanted to see the towers and take the tour in person, but for various reasons the stars never aligned during my previous visits to LA. Today I was finally able to take the tour.

    In real life, Sabato Rodia — also known as Sam or Simon — was quite the character. After immigrating to the US from Italy in the late 19th century he moved around a lot, settling down in Los Angeles for to build the towers starting in the 1920’s.

    The towers are built out of metal wire and mesh covered in concrete, with found objects like bottles and tiles embedded in them. Rodia allegedly stole some of the tiles from his employer. The concrete also contains impressions of various tools, plumbing fixtures, and iron vents.

    The property that the towers are on at one point contained a house, but it was lost due to a fire. The lot is triangular in shape. The towers form a line along the middle of the triangle like the masts on a sailing ship.

    As the “captain” of the ship Rodia oversaw weddings in a small Pentecostal church he built into the structure. (In typical Pentecostal fashion, Rodia himself had been through several divorces.)

    Due to declining health in his later years, Rodia gave the property away to his neighbor and moved to Martinez, California. Despite living another decade he never returned.

    Today, the Watts Towers are a California State Park and is in the National Park Service’s Register of Historic Places. Due to the somewhat fragile nature of the structures ongoing maintenance is required, with the current restoration overseen by LACMA. Rust due to water seeping in through the cracks is a major concern.

    My recommendation: If you’re into outsider art, it doesn’t get much more outsider than the Watts Towers. Though they can be seen from a block or two away, the only way to see them up close is on a guided tour. More information about the tours can be found on the official website.