• A night aboard the Queen Mary: the world’s most haunted ship

    I spent the night aboard one of the most haunted landmarks in California: a decommissioned classic ocean liner permanently docked in Long Beach.

    Before the age of jet travel, there was only one way to travel across the Atlantic: ocean liners. And as anyone who’s seen the movie Titanic knows, these ships were more like floating hotels compared to the massive cruise ships of the current era.

    The RMS Queen Mary was built in Scotland and entered service in 1936 — 90 years ago. She became a wartime vessel during World War II, painted grey for camouflage and packed with soldiers and supplies. She reentered passenger service once again after the war, only for the age of jet travel to make her obsolete by the 1960s. Since then it’s been permanently moored in Long Beach where she still stands today as a quirky hotel, historical attraction, and a magnet for ghost hunters.

    Beware, those who enter: not every passenger is among the living!

    Before turning in for the night I took the guided Paranormal Ship Walk tour. The total group size was around 15 people or so, and the guide attentively shepherded us through small spaces and numerous stairways, stopping to show us parts of the ship that are typically off-limits to guests like the swimming pool, ballroom, and speakeasy. Unfortunately due to Halloween festivities we didn’t get to see much of the engine room due to set dressing and actors in spooky outfits. Still, the atmosphere was unnerving, particularly when our guide pointed out the spot where an engine worker had been crushed to death.

    While the stateroom I spent the night in was surprisingly drafty, I can’t say I personally experienced any paranormal encounters. Then again, perhaps the ghosts were terrified of me.

    Do I believe in ghosts? While there are certainly mysteries I can’t explain, to call them ghosts would be jumping to conclusions in my view. Personally I think most of the time it’s easier to enjoy a harmless spooky story than it is to process grief and loss. But that’s just me and I’m open to being proven wrong.

    My recommendation: This is one of the most unique paranormal tours on the west coast, from the spooky tales to the war stories to the behind-the-scenes areas many guests never see. Spending the night there made it a more intimate (if chilly) experience. For your best chance to confront a ghost, try to book room B340 as it’s said to be the most haunted room on the ship. One caveat — the dining options aboard the ship are subpar at best and there aren’t many alternatives nearby. I’d recommend planning around that if possible.

  • Catalina Island’s Casino

    Hopping off the ferry after an hour’s ride from Long Beach, I finally set foot on Catalina Island.

    Weather permitting, if you squint just right you can barely see the California coast with your naked eye from here. There’s a large crowd near the port, perhaps explained by the large cruise ship anchored near the island.

    Aside from boating and other water-based activities, Catalina Island, specifically the city of Avalon, California, is a very touristy place. I skipped past most of that and headed straight for what I’d actually come to see: the casino.

    This casino isn’t of the gambling variety. In fact, the word “casino” originally just meant something like “house of entertainment.” The Catalina Casino served a dual purpose: a theater on the bottom level, and a ballroom upstairs.

    Built in the late 1920s by a certain William Wrigley — yes, the chewing gum guy — it was the first theater designed for talkies. However, it also has a theater organ for movies without sound, and there’s a stage for live performances.

    The unique circular dome shape of the theater has an interesting feature. On the tour I went on, the tour guide had us sit down in the center part of the theater, then she stomped her foot on the floor. It made the loudest echo I think I’ve ever heard. Supposedly that was intentional, but it also means that if someone sitting in those seats was whispering, the entire theater could hear them.

    Upstairs in the back of the theater there are four movie projectors, two very old film projectors, one newer one, and a digital projector. The theater has been in continuous use since it opened, pandemic aside.

    On the top level is the ballroom, which has hosted events from dance parties to roller discos throughout the decades. Owing to its massive size, the floor has enough room for thousands of dancers.

    Outside the ballroom is a balcony around the building featuring 360 degree picturesque views of the island.

    My recommendation: If you’re in the area and have the time, Catalina Island may be worth the trek as California doesn’t have many developed islands off the coast. However, be warned that it’s a tourist trap. You may want to consider packing lunch and other consumables to avoid the tourist economy prices. The Catalina Casino VIP tour is $40/person and takes around 90 minutes.

  • Backrooms at the AMC Metreon

     

    The original version of the Metreon in San Francisco — before the second floor was renovated into a Target store — was a quirky place. Stores on the first two floors tended to focus on food and entertainment, and were often unusually shaped due to the aggressively ’90s architecture of the place.

    Years after most of the original tenants had come and gone (RIP The Airtight Garage arcade!) the second floor became a Target, and the mall was reconfigured around it.

    Remnants of the original floor plan still exist in awkward architectural scars; spaces that are no longer usable. This is particularly noticeable on the south side of the building where the second set of escalators once stood.

    Recently after seeing a movie, I decided to do some urban exploration. While some areas I’d hoped to access are now plastered over, I did find a crack in a “wall” only to discover… a small storage area and the manager’s office.

    Ah well, not every backroom leads to an alternate dimension filled with monsters — for better or worse.

  • Treasures of the Pharaohs at the de Young Museum

     

    Over Labor Day weekend I went to the de Young Museum in Golden Gate Park to check out their current special exhibit, Treasures of the Pharaohs.

    This small but focused selection features burial artifacts of the royals along with small but well-crafted pieces used in daily life such as tools and utensils.

    Two big surprises (to me, anyway) that I learned about: First, one of the pharaohs was a woman, bucking the traditional gender roles of the ruling class, and was often depicted as male at the time. Second, the ancient Egyptians were really into beer. Both of these offer connections between the modern world and antiquity: in particular the role of women in politics, at a time when women’s rights are eroding throughout the world.

    Tickets to the exhibit are (mostly) sold as a timed entry, however when I went it was fairly cramped. This was surprising considering that only a small number of people seemed to be lingering to take notes or sketches; perhaps entry times are not strictly enforced.

    Admission includes the rest of the museum as well, though the permanent collection is easy enough to see for free if you’re so inclined. Treasures of the Pharaohs is on the second floor; from the entrance, turn left and walk past the gift shop, then look for the stairs or the elevator.

    Oh and don’t worry — there’s another gift shop on the second floor in case you missed the first one.

    My recommendation: If you’re curious about Egypt it’s worth checking out, however keep two things in mind: it’s a bit pricey, and can get crowded. See if you have a friend who’s a member and maybe you can get a discount? I’d also strongly encourage visiting during off-peak hours.

  • Castro Trinket Trade

    On a quiet residential street not far from the center of the historic Castro District is a decorated box attached to a post. At first glance it appears to be one of those familiar Little Free Library boxes or the similar Little Free Pantry boxes — but this is something different.

    This is a trinket trade box.

    A trinket trade box works a little differently. First, obviously it’s filled with trinkets instead of books or food. Second — and this is important — you’re supposed to take a trinket and leave your own.

    This particular box also offers some free trinkets on top if you have nothing to give at the moment. But heed the abundant warnings signs! Break the rules and it’s going on your permanent record.

    Follow the Castro Trinket Trade on Instagram or read more about it on Mission Local.

  • Flower Bathroom

    For all the uniquely decorated bathrooms in San Francisco, this mural of oversized flowers is in an unexpected place: Roxie Theater’s small-screen “Little Roxie” theater.

    This mural has a way of jumping out at you as you use the restroom on your way out of the theater; not only have you gone from a dark theater to a brightly-lit bathroom, but it’s a total sensory overload with the mural’s bold color scheme and lively sense of motion.

    The Little Roxie’s lobby is covered in murals painted by local artists. This bathroom’s mural is the work of Megan Wilson, who’s also created various murals in nearby Clarion Alley.

  • My First Earthquake at the Bottom of the Hill

    Quick, what band do you associate with San Francisco’s Mission District?

    As bands come and go, the answer will of course say more about you — your tastes, your “era” — than the neighborhood.

    For me, one of the bands that made a tectonic shift in the Mission’s sound when I first arrived here was My First Earthquake, the band fronted by Rebecca Garza-Bortman (also of the bands Happy Fangs and Love Jerks). Their music leans toward dance-friendly indie synth pop.

    On Friday I went to see them halfway across town at the Bottom of the Hill, the legendary but soon-to-be-shuttered venue.

    My First Earthquake didn’t waver far from the songs they’re known for, and who can fault them? They ended the night with an oops-we-forgot-the-lyrics rendition of Green Day’s “Basket Case,” followed by the band’s biggest hit: “Cool in the Cool Way.”

    Music video for “Cool in the Cool Way” by My First Earthquake

    Sad as it is to see Bottom of the Hill close for good, they seem to be going out with a series of seismic events. I’d never actually had to wait in line to get in before, let alone when I had tickets in advance. At this show? The line went all the way down the street to the end of the block and I could already feel the ground shaking from the speakers before I got inside.

    Rebecca stopped at one point to introduce her husband — who performed the aforementioned Green Day cover with the band — mentioning that they actually met at the venue when she went to see his band.

    In the years since, they played Stern Grove Festival, someone made a sex robot and the band responded with a song, the members of the band split to focus on raising their kids, and now it’s come full circle as they’re back, right in the epicenter of where it all started.

    Or maybe this is only an aftershock.

  • Red Bull: Tasting notes

    Food manufacturers are known for their consistency, but at the same time they know people love novelty. Look at Taco Bell for example: their menu consistently has your favorite classics plus a few crazy new items that get people talking.

    In recent years, Austrian energy drink brand Red Bull has jumped on this trend as well. They’ve been churning out new flavors on a seasonal basis; some stick around, others are forgotten faster than you can say “Red Bull Cola.”

    Without further ado, here’s my completely scientific tasting notes for the current (summer 2026) range of Red Bull flavors.

    Red Bull Energy Drink (Original)

    • Color: Light brown/dark orange
    • Scent: Mildly citrusy sweet, but carries well through the air
    • Initial impression: Sparkly and slightly sweet with a hint of bitterness. Like a simple aperitif.
    • Aftertaste: Lingering orange.

    The mild, refreshing orange-y taste has become a classic for a reason. Very sippable — best served chilled, not over ice. 

    Rating: 5/5

    Sea Blue (Juneberry)

    • Color: Purple-blue
    • Scent: Concord grape popsicle
    • Initial impression: Sweet but tart, fruity, candy-like. Artificially flavored.
    • Aftertaste: Minimal; doesn’t stick around.

    Somewhat cloying, with a slight nod to Red Bull’s signature flavor profile. Not well balanced.

    Rating: 2/5

    Yellow (Tropical)

    • Color: Urine yellow
    • Scent: Too strong, like a cheap scented candle
    • Initial impression: Milder than expected from the scent.
    • Aftertaste: Longer than I’d like, but gets sweeter after the initial sip.

    More refreshing than expected. Somewhat generic like an off-brand regional soda. Not a good fit for the brand.

    Rating: 4/5

    Coconut (Coconut Berry)

    • Color: Light blue
    • Scent: Sweet, light berry
    • Initial impression: Cotton candy or a snow cone.
    • Aftertaste: Coconut becomes more pronounced.

    Tastes like something cheap you’d get at a beachfront amusement park. Not terrible, not great. Mercifully unlike coconut La Croix, it also tastes nothing like Coppertone.

    Rating: 2/5

    Amber (Strawberry Apricot)

    • Color: Red, slightly pink
    • Scent: Strawberry
    • Initial impression: Too sweet, tastes like artificial strawberry flavor. Can’t taste the apricot.
    • Aftertaste: Quickly gets bitter. 

    Very candy-like overall. Is this meant to appeal to kids? Asking because I don’t think kids would like this either.

    Rating: 1/5

    Peach (White Peach)

    • Color: Clear, slightly white
    • Scent: Not much of one
    • Initial impression: Less intense version of 7 Up.
    • Aftertaste: Strong herbal medicine kick.

    Not my personal favorite, but will likely appeal to those who enjoy ginger ale, Sprite, etc. Oddly it tastes nothing like peach — if anything it’s more like apricot.

    Rating: 4/5

    Spring Edition 2026: Cherry Sakura

    • Color: Pinkish red
    • Scent: Fresh lawn clippings, cherry juice
    • Initial impression: Light fruit punch, not overly sweet. Smell and taste are somewhat incongruous. 
    • Aftertaste: Artificial cherry flavor becomes more prominent.

    Easily the most mild flavor of these, I doubt anyone would associate it with Red Bull in a blind taste test. I couldn’t get over the disappointing aftertaste; the recipe would be much better with some light tweaks. This is the second version of this flavor, maybe third time’s the charm?

    Rating: 2/5

    Summer Edition 2026: Sudachi Lime

    • Color: Lemonade
    • Scent: Lemonade
    • Initial impression: Tangy, sweet lemonade.
    • Aftertaste: Thick, sweet. Lightly citrusy, but not quite lemon.

    This type of Japanese lime has an interesting flavor, but it’s packed with too much sugar. It has a thick texture to it like it was made with mineral water.

    Rating: 3/5

    Red (Watermelon)

    • Color: Darkish red
    • Scent: Sweet, candy-like
    • Initial impression: Milder than the smell suggests. Slightly bitter. 
    • Aftertaste: Watermelon flavor comes in later as the bitterness wears off and it becomes sweeter.

    Grew on me with each sip — possibly the standout flavor on this list. If more than one Red Bull variety is for sale, this is usually one of them. It’s easy to see why.

    Rating:  4.5/5

  • resonate_glitch

    Recently I was wandering around with my phone in my hand, as one does, and got to wondering: what if I could use the camera feed and other sensors on the phone to create a procedurally-generated soundtrack?

    And just to make things more interesting: I wanted to do it entirely in HTML5 + JavaScript with no backend server at all. In other words, something you could use without an internet connection, provided you’d already downloaded the page.

    A few late night tinkering sessions later, and I had a working, somewhat well tuned prototype of my new web app: resonate_glitch.

    As I’ve explained in the README:

    Generative audio in HTML5. Designed to be run on phones.

    resonate_glitch takes in various inputs: the camera feed, mic input, and accelerometer motion data on your phone. Running these parameters through an algorithm, it produces synthesized electronic “music” with a glitchy camera view.

    The aim of the project is to create a synthetic synchronicity. Does the music have any meaning? Are you able to affect it in any way? It’s up to the user to experiment and find out.

    Note: There is no backend server, everything runs in your web browser. So while the webapp can’t be used for spying, it may cause your phone to overheat.

    Have a moment to make some messy, glitchy music? Great! It’s free and open source, try it yourself:

    Source code is available in this GitHub repo.

  • Rhythm AI

    One of the key ideas to emerge from conceptual performance art is tearing down the proscenium. To define the term, the proscenium is the “window” of the stage that the audience is expected to sit behind and passively observe.

    An infamous example of this in action is the performance piece Rhythm 0 by Marina Abramović. I’ll let Wikipedia explain:

    The work involved Abramović standing still while the audience was invited to do to her whatever they wished, using one of 72 objects she had placed on a table. The items were specifically chosen to represent objects of both pleasure and pain. Some items included a rose, a feather, perfume, honey, bread, grapes, wine, scissors, a scalpel, nails, a metal bar, a gun, and a bullet.

    There were no separate stages. Abramović and the visitors stood in the same space, making it clear that the latter were part of the work. The purpose of the piece, she said, was to find out, when given the opportunity, how far the public would go: “What is the public about and what are they going to do in this kind of situation?”

    Earlier this month I went to see a performance of an “updated” version of this type of performance: Rhythm AI at The Intersection of Art and Technology (stylized as “tiat”) here in San Francisco.

    This one-off performance was the work of artists Angelina Almukhametova and Dann Disciglio. Unlike Abramović’s version the replaced the human performer with five iPads. The iPads booted up to display a circular graphic, then in a Siri-like voice explained the instructions — more or less the same prompt Abramović used 50 years ago.

    At this point (seen in the video above) the audience waited awkwardly for a few beats, assuming something would happen. Then ,as if on cue, a young rebellious type got up and started breaking things.

    (Not pictured: after their turn I grabbed the hat off the table and put it on one of the iPads.)

    This back-and-forth dynamic of destruction and creation continued for the next 15 minutes or so, with a small number of audience members participating the most and a few taking things to extremes, risking injury in the process.

    The piece reached a sort of non-ending, with the two artists coming out and themselves destroying the iPads with shaving cream before laying flowers beneath them. Or what was left of the iPads, at any rate.

    Personally, to me this was all rather fun; but I tend to be drawn toward art that challenges conventional social norms and interactions. I got the impression that some were disappointed that the iPads didn’t actually do anything, but that’s missing the point in my mind, as the art is the experience, not the presentation. Some members of the audience clapped awkwardly at various points, perhaps uncertain if what they were seeing signified something, or perhaps they were making their own contribution to the piece. Who’s to say?

    That said, a part of me secretly wanted the ending to involve the manager from the Apple Store around the corner to come marching in and tell us we were all banned from their store for life after what we’d done. But that would have been a bit over the top.

    While Rhythm AI was a one-off event, tiat’s current exhibit, “the epistemologies of slop,” runs through the end of July.

    Edit: Here’s a great writeup on Rhythm AI from local artist Avital Meshi.

    Edit 2: Here are some of the remains of Rhythm AI in the back room at tiat: